charleston

This post may feel random since I haven’t left the tri-state area in ten months, but I’ve been dreaming about the places that I will travel to once the COVID-19 pandemic is fully behind us, and at the top of my dream list is Charleston, South Carolina. Part of me feels silly for saying that since right before the pandemic began I’d traveled there twice within a 12-month period, but there is something about Charleston (maybe it’s the coastal beauty and Antebellum history, or traditional Southern charm and some seriously superb food and shopping) that swept me off my feet from the moment I arrived there and has me daydreaming about it often while I’m away. Since I’m waiting to travel until I receive both doses of my vaccine (which is now just a few weeks away!), I’m going to write about my trips down to the Holy City in the meantime.

Both of my trips were during Charleston’s off-season in February. While this may seem odd, temperatures scarcely dip below 40, hovering in the 50 to 60s during the winter so compared to what I am used to in New York, the weather was comfortable. I also loved getting to see the sites without the throngs of tourists, but I did miss out on the beach towns because of the time of year I was there. Next time I visit, I plan to go in the spring or fall. I don’t know that I’m tough enough to handle a summer down there.

EAT

Callie’s Hot Little Biscuits ($): Locals and visitors alike line up at Callie’s Hot Little Biscuit for a treat straight from the oven—think sweet biscuits stuffed with fresh blackberry jam and savory creations paired with black pepper bacon.
Millers All Day ($$): It’s breakfast all day (or at least until 3 p.m.), but it isn’t boring or typical, especially since the chefs use heirloom grains and local ingredients as a jumping off point for creativity. Its greatness is known though so don’t be surprised if there is a wait for brunch.
Leon’s Oyster Shop ($$): What’s so fun about Leon’s is the juxtaposition of high and low- think oysters and fried chicken; Champagne and the Champagne of beers. Leon’s aims to be an everybody spot, and they are winning at it.
McCradys ($$$$): this restaurant permanently closed this year, which makes me sad because this was one of my top five favorite dinners/ experiences of all time. McCrady’s offered exceptional hospitality with a progressive and elevated tasting menu in an intimate 22-seat dining room. The stimulating room showcased an open kitchen that offered a glimpse into the creative world of their talented chefs.
Husk ($$$): I first heard of Husk on Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown Charleston episode, when he had chef Sean Brock on, and I loved his mission of saving southern food. Even though Sean Brock has parted ways with the restaurant group and moved to Nashville, this is the restaurant that kicked off his empire, and as such, is the first place to go to experience his “new South” vision for the region’s cuisine. The menu changes daily, but you can count on a wide range of beautifully plated dishes, like Kentuckyaki glazed crispy pigs ears and cornmeal dusted catfish, that will make you think, “Wow, I really know nothing about Southern food.” If Husk is on your list, I recommend getting a reservation as soon as possible. If you don’t plan ahead, go next-door to the Bar at Husk instead. You can still drink great cocktails and eat delicious things, like their famous cheeseburger, pimento cheese, and country ham. It’s not the full Husk experience, but with a much shorter wait and a huge variety of bourbons to try, it’s still pretty great.
Jeni’s Ice Cream ($): I know I shouldn’t technically put this on the list since Jeni’s is an Ohio-based brand, but I’d never heard of it, nor tasted it prior to my trips to Charleston, and let me tell you- it is the BEST. They have unique flavors like goat cheese with red cherries and brambleberry crisp and more traditional flavors, but you can’t go wrong with any choice.
The Darling Oyster Bar ($$): A King Street favorite, seafood lovers can sit and watch local shuckers prepare thousands of East Coast oysters every day. Its size makes it an easy place to meet friends, pop in for a quick bite, or stake your claim at the raw bar for a leisurely evening.

SLEEP

My favorite place that I’ve stayed at so far is The Restoration, and I LOVED it. Its unique blend of edgy-urban-meets-southern-comfort and central location drew me in. The suites feel more like luxe apartments than they do hotel rooms. I’ve read wonderful things about 86 Cannon, Zero George, and the Dewberry as well.

SEE

Walking Tours: To get my bearings in Charleston and learn about the famous history of the city, I started with a walking tour through Charleston (I actually did those both times since the second time I visited the city was Gregg’s first time there, and although he doesn’t normally love history, we agreed that it was a good place for him to start since history is such an important part of visiting Charleston). I was actually happy I did two tours (granted I’m a bit of a nerd and love history) because the Two Sisters and Bulldog Tour’s walking tours were so different. Two Sisters Tours is owned by two sisters who take you through the charming streets their family has called home for seven generations. Along the way, they will cover the signature landmarks of Charleston, but what makes this tour special are the personal anecdotes that give you a sense and feel of the lives that have been lived in the city, not just where they lived. The other I took was the Bulldog Tour, which went into more depth about the historical events and landmarks in the city. Here are some random tidbits of information that I learned during my tours.

The architecture of downtown Charleston, S.C., is modeled after its sister colony, Bridgetown, Barbados. Many of Charleston’s first settlers were white voyagers and black slaves from the island.
Charleston was the frequent target of pirate attacks in its early days. In 1718, none other than Edward Teach, a.k.a. Blackbeard, attacked several ships trying to enter the harbor.
The port and related trade brought Charles Town wealth, and the wealthy Charlestonians wanted culture. Soon they had the first theater, golf club, museum and City College in America.
Pineapples are a symbol of hospitality in Charleston, a tradition that goes back to Colonial days when returning sea captains would spear a pineapple outside their home. This was to let the captain’s friends know he had returned safely, and that they could come over to hear his stories from the high seas.
Charleston was nearly destroyed by a 7.0 magnitude earthquake that was felt from Boston to Chicago to New Orleans in 1886. The earthquake caused $6 million worth of damage, at a time when all the city’s buildings were valued at around $24 million. During rebuilding, many of the brick structures were stabilized with iron rods secured on the outside walls by “gib plates.” Though the jury’s out on the hardware’s effectiveness, they remain a treasured element of Holy City architecture.

Plantation Tours: As you likely know, the plantations of South Carolina were central to its wealth and power. Most of them used slavery to produce cotton, rice and tobacco, and in turn, collapsed when slavery was abolished. These preserved plantations and gardens are just 30 minutes from the hustle and crowds of downtown Charleston. As you lose yourself amongst the moss-covered oak trees and blooming azaleas, you can’t help but find yourself being transported on a journey back in time.

There are several estates to chose between, but I decided to visit Magnolia Plantation and Middleton Place. Middleton Place is home to America’s oldest and most important landscaped gardens. Began in 1741, the historic site today encompasses 110 acres including the Gardens, House Museum, Stableyards, and Eliza’s House. Together they tell the inclusive history of all who lived, worked, and died here. The stories of the Middleton family including two Founding Fathers and generations of enslaved people are interwoven throughout the property. While Middleton Place’s gardens attract those who like trimmed hedges and flower-lined paths, the Magnolia Plantation and Gardens is the place to go if you’re more of an avid nature lover. Yes, the house is worth an hour of your time – it’s a less ornate version of other Charleston plantation homes, but the interior is just as beautiful – but most visitors come here to enjoy the wildlife. Keep your eyes peeled for gators, otters and turtles in the Audubon Swamp Garden, grab your binoculars and look for local birds at the waterfowl refuge, or get lost in the horticultural maze.

There are still so many places for me to visit, stay and eat in the Charleston area and things to learn, so I am anxiously awaiting the day that I can return.